“Miss Daisy” does The GAP

We all loved the Bash and hated to leave.  The pleasant cool weather and the bracing bike rides left us wanting more. 
“Drive us to the Great Allegheny Passage.”
“Yes’em”
Bethy likes these trips ‘cause the driver will stop ANYWHERE she wishes –- like Farmer’s stands, where they have fruits,vegetables and exotic orange cream soda for floats.

Patty and Al like having Beth along because of her special link to Evelyn, her sainted Mother-in-law.  A whispered prayer to Evelyn virtually assures good weather for your day.  Evelyn never failed us.  When showers threatened our bike ride, a pleasant shelter appeared at trailside; the weather was cool and the showers came at night or enroute in a vehicle.

Al loves having his little sister along because she has a mind like a steel trap and will gladly expostulate most of it at drop of an allusion. (And, being a highly skilled editor, she finds misspelled signs EVERYWHERE.)

We had time for two rides on the GAP; the first from our campsite at Confluence PA to Ohiopyle to see the rafters (and eat PIE}

link to an earlier ride here.

Trees fall only at night when Evelyn is on the case

The river is up and many rapids are washed out.

There ALWAYS seems to be something to giggle about..

BIG water  at the Entrance Rapid below the Falls

EVERYONE who rides on the Great Allegheny Passage is an Adventurer, each on their own Mythic Quest.  From the sub teens stretching to new found limits to Edward and Lewis 48 days out from Portland, or the stout Russian woman crossing the country on nerve and the kindness of strangers to a granddad riding out to finish with his granddaughter.
We were passed by a “train” –– three generations. Dad and Granddad on a tandem hitched to a half bike for Grandson pulling a gear trailer –– pedaling hard, doing big miles.
Each night in the campground brings a new crop of thru bikers with their tales and each stop along the trail is another exchange of stories. 
You might meet the mayor of a nearby city or a Professor at a great state University.  It could happen.

Covering old ground

Beautiful "Turkeyfoot"

Because the Yukon is in chambers with His Honor the Mayor, we must re-ride the trail from here to Ohiopyle rather than strike out for some of the Northern sections we haven't yet seen.  Not a hardship,  as this is a beautiful section and our friends the Hartsells will be paddling along here and we may spot them. We will end up with over 200 miles on the GAP this trip, but may not "complete".  We will, however, cover some parts four times.

THERE ARE TIDINGS OF GREAT JOY, for born just yesterday in the town of Ohiopyle is a BAKERY which shall be to all carbo loaders a place of infinite delight.  Fresh baked breads and rolls, bagels and donuts, signature chocolate chip cookies (with two kinds of chocolate) AND PIE --beautiful cream pies, which, alas, have no chance or surviving ten  miles in a Pannier...we loaded up and had a great time with Julie who has seen her husband's dream come to fragrant fruition and is so excited (and sleep deprived) that she talked us through every scrumptious product and  kept adding samples to our bags. We wish them every success, with the bakery, their farm and their three small children. WOW!  

Springs PA Farmers Market

—BEING A FULL ACCOUNT OF A VERY FULL DAY
When we wandered home last night, there was a note  from Pam and Bill inviting us to drive “over the mountain” to attend the Springs Farmers Market.  Bill planned to shoot pictures there and then on to other assignments, but  they would drop us at Meyersdale for a 32 mile DOWNHILL ride home.

 “ We’re In!”  and at 8:30 we were loaded and driving over the Highest Point in Pennsylvania with Bill giving a detailed narrative of the area, past and present. (Bill Metzger not only NAMED the Great Allegheny Passage, but wrote the book on the history of the trail, mile by rich historical mile.)
We dropped down from Mount Davis into a broad valley with lots of Amish farms.  Here and there Bill pointed out vestiges of old industries, mines and RR crossings long since obscured by time. 

Veggies

Ahhh, Bunnies...

Springs Pennsylvania isn’t large, but the Farmers Market spread over several acres and two long sheds, the entrance signaled by two little Amish boys with an open pen –“PUPPIES FOR SALE.”  Inside there were early vegetables, breads, jams, great hanging baskets from the Yoders, old tools and assorted flea market stuff mostly courtesy of the “English”. 

PAM AND PATTY AMIDST THE YODER'S FLORALS

Bill discussing business with Mr Yoder and the kids

Then it was off to the Meyersdale Station (the great displays and photos inside are Bill’s work –“paid for the porch we’re sitting on…”   We unloaded bikes and took off  while Pam and Bill set off form more photographic assignments, but not before telling us the whole story of the old couple across the street who disturb the peace daily shouting at each other and their four dogs.
We’ll have to hurry in order to eat lunch at the Opera House in Rockwood (again) and buy more bread (again) and get back in time for the Volunteer fire barbeque on the Confluence town square.

MORE BREAD PLEASE

It’s great going slightly downhill without paying the “price”. The Opera House sees a lot of riders on weekends, but there are great people to wait with.
We got back to the Airstream with barely enough time to ride into town for the chicken and the Polka music.
We were lucky to share the waiting line with our neighbors from West Virginia –the Hartzells. Tim has really been helpful with advice on my car problems (see sidebar), Tim, Leslie and the kids –Nick, Ashley, and David - are a delight to watch  playing and laughing together.  We want to adopt all of them. We all devoured a half chicken and sides and the boys introduced Al to “Gobbleberry Ice Cream from Sisters.  Are you ready for this?  Blueberry ice cream with cherries and white chocolate chunks.  Oh, yes.
Then there was the German Band that tuned up in the park pavilion,  gaily attired with an announcer that spoke like Lawrence Welk with bell ringers and costumed ladies dancing.   Well everybody took a turn dancing in the grass and sidewalks, much to the embarrassment of Al and Ashley.  The band was really pretty bad so Tim declared an upcoming rain event and we biked home for showers and (surprisingly) Tim and the boys went fishing. Leslie suspects this was the plan all along.  The old people showered and retired early to some nice cool 60 degree sleeping weather.

GAP–The highlight Reel

Then again, there are those sections of most bike trails that blow us away. The GAP IS beautiful. It has been lovingly planned and executed by local communities with lots of help from dedicated volunteers and some serious money from contributors large and small. The surface is great and the signage on all the twisting back roads makes it easy to find hidden trailheads. But this section, from Garrett up and over the Continental Divide and through the Big Savage Tunnel has all the great structural sites crammed into one section. There are 1900 foot viaducts that soar over valleys , curving viaducts leading to old iron bridges spanning creeks, the Continental Divide, for crying out loud and then the Tunnel which is nearly 3/4 mile long and COOL in every sense of the word. At the South end of the tunnel is a view that sweeps all the way back to the beginning of the trail in Cumberland, Maryland. (On an autumn day, when the steam train that carries sightseers up to Frostburg is pumping out white vapor, you can trace the path as it curves and climbs.) PROFESSIONAL photos in the earlier links will show all this to best advantage, but here are a few personal ones.










This family from Vermont camped with us the night of the great rain. Lots of funny stories there. They are riding Pittsburg to DC. She is eleven and he is barely seven and last year they rode “The Little Train” Trail near Montreal. They usually go 30 miles, but since the last 20 miles from where we snacked with them to Cumberland is DOWNHILL, They will do more today. Then it’s pool and Hot tub says Mom.
“And STEAK!”, says the little guy.

The GAP–Markleton to Garrett

Truth be told, there are some parts of any bike trail that are boring --  not ugly or smelly, but just too much of the same.  This section was a little like that; the weather was cool and a little threatening and the trail left the main branch of the Casselman river (now stained by last night’s rain) and followed a lesser watercourse.  The highlight of the trip was Rockwood, a “trail town” which does its best to welcome commerce from the trail riders.



 They were improving the entry ramp where the trail crossed the highway and we followed the bicycle symbols painted in the roadway into town.  It took a side street with minimum grade (some trail towns are perched on steep side hills) and led us to the Old Opera House shops.
Lots of shops. One vendor has pastries and serves drinks and soup.  The Next is where you acquire a sub or some pizza.  Other shops sell gifts, local food items, wood stoves, cast iron skillets, “I’m not carrying THAT” tee shirts, decorative items—you get the idea.  We had Soup and a great sub, but the big discovery was the home baked bread.

Oh my, the Bread!

Because Al has one pannier on the bike (in a vain attempt to look a little like the “thru-bikers”), we had plenty of room for a huge loaf of bread.
When I saw the bread I was thinking ….”If this tastes half as good as it looks…..!!!”  So in the pannier it went and so light that Al didn’t even notice.    After only a few slices with our dinner that night we decided that it was as good as MiMaw used to make and better than we ever get anywhere these days.  Soooo breakfast toasted on the griddle on the stove with jelly, PB & J sandwiches for lunch…OH Nooooo only a half loaf left…..Not to worry on our ride to the next starting point we HAVE to go through Rockwood.  As luck would have it they had 2 small loaves left today, so I grabbed them and all is well.  I had to laugh….this is almost as good as Ice Cream.  This has been another small problem, we are out of ice cream and the grocery stores in Confluence CLOSE AT 5:00, and we are usually riding our bikes till 6:00.  I guess we will be making an early morning run to the grocery store.  Might need to get some fruit and veg’s too.  (That looks better at check out). :0)
                                                                                   (posted by Patty)
      Thus provisioned, we rode on with frequent stops.
  At one, by a pretty waterfall, the Fairly Grandmother was resting quietly when out of the dewy mists appeared a ….
….Water Nymph.   and a sprightly one she was, frolicking in the spray, and giving the Fairly Grandmother some concern about tumbling and lacerations and emergency helicopter rescues (and other such grandmotherly concerns). The kindly uncle and Al discussed maps, not fully appreciating the grace and mirth displayed before them.
I do not think this displeased the Water Nymph, but only shortly later, as we separated, the heavens opened and we had another downpour.  Then followed a repeat of yesterday –riding back into the sunlight, grit covering our shoes, our drivetrain sounding like a can of rocks, and a major bike cleaning.
 




      Each night, the campsite across from ours fills with “thru-bikers”. Al curries favor with these morally superior beings by offering to charge their electronics or other such menial tasks.  When we came back tonight, one guy we talked to last night came by to say good bye.  They had planned to ride to Ohiopyle for the white water rafting and back tonight, but their plans had changed as the water changed to brown from the big rain.  The next victims were a couple –a woman at least six foot tall and a guy who looked like Colin Fletcher,the Welsh backpacking Guru.  They watched our balletic movements as we rinsed bikes at the dump station and hung our stuff to dry and came by. Al made his standard offer of free electricity.
“ You must be the couple from Alabama (or Mississippi?) who have been everywhere…”
Ah yes. ‘Tis good to be recognized by one’s betters.. We had a great conversation with “PsychoPatty” , AT ‘03 and were truly appreciative of her accomplishment. Hope to see them again.  
    There is some discussion of our Patty adopting the trail name “CYCLOPATTY”.  (She really never warmed up to Al’s last suggestion –WELLBUTIN –” An anti-depressant with no known sexual side effects.” 
Your comments are welcomed….