Old Nauvoo

Nauvoo is a Hebrew word meaning beautiful place, a name given to this gentle bend of the Mississippi by Joseph Smith. Here he gathered his persecuted Saints and built a town that rivaled Chicago in the mid 1800's. The town was prosperous and, by most accounts, beautiful. The temple, facing West across the River, was nearly completed when the Prophet was murdered; further persecution forced The Latter Day Saints to abandon their homes and begin the epic trek West to the Great Salt Lake.

In the last few decades, the Saints came back to rebuild the Temple and do Williamsburg-quality restorations of many of the homes. On these mild June days, it is a serene, green place, neat brick buildings spaced on the four acre lots that formed the city, lush grass and shade trees in the spaces between. On the remaining stone roads, huge tour buses pass horse drawn wagons, herds of young people on trips, and family cars on pilgrimage, but nothing disturbs the sense of tranquility.

The beautiful visitor center is the place to start. There you will meet your first "missionary" ,one of hundreds, young and older who serve here. They interpret the exhibits, show the movies, greet you in each restored building, drive the horse or oxen and form the casts in each of several variety stage shows, musicals and pageants presented daily.

It is worth mentioning that all this -- carriage rides, entertainments, tours of each building -- absolutely FREE. The warm exchanges you will surely have with these folks are free also, but priceless.

This is one of several sculptures in the lush green Women's Garden, commemerating in part the Relief Society, the oldest and largest woman's organization in the world.

Fresh faces of young missionaries who put on Broadway-quality entertainment in venues all over the grounds.

When we found so much to learn here, we extended our time, twice. We attended the "Sunset on the Mississippi" variety show three times! Patty found opportunities to speak with the young performing missionaries as they worked all around the site and predictably began to call them "my kids." We bonded with the older missionaries as they toured us through exhibits and took us on ox carts, and cheered even more enthusiastically when we spotted them in the cast of a theatrical.

Most of the senior missionary staff serve 18 months -- two summers, one winter -- at their own expense, usually half a continent from home. When Patty repeatedly heard reports of 30+ grandchildren left to their own devices , she wondered if this wasn't excessive.

Some missionaries, like this pair of oxen, are on permanent duty .

There are many quiet moments walking among the buildings, watching the river and its bird life . This is a corner of the Joseph Smith Sr. home and cemetery .

The most touching moment of the week was the walk along the Trail of Hope at sunset.

Panels with quotations from diaries of the Saints line this path to the landing where they started the trek West.

Young missionaries narrate some stations as small groups move respectfully, by lamplight, toward the Mississippi.

We were fortunate to be with two young missionary friends, Faith and Tanner, whose character and quiet testimony is the fruit of the of all the suffering and sacrifice of the exodus.

There is still much more to see and learn here. We expect to return, perhaps with friends, perhaps for the large pageants in the full sun of July, but more likely again in this serene green time in June.

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The Great river Road -- a Bit of It

We sort of backed into this idea of a Great River Road tour. We were already visiting family and old "shrines" near the confluence of Mississippi and Ohio and proceeding on to the river town of our youth, St Louis. With several routes available, Al kept moving West toward the River and Route 3.

Lots of family weekends driving this route.

Familiar landmarks sped by and the fields were lush with new crops.

Near Chester the road hugs the river and the truck route gets even closer. There we parked and watched a 15 barge tow struggle upstream at walking speed.

The river was bank full and seams of full size trees were skimming downstream. We took the bait there and really swallowed the hook watching the traffic from Bellerive Park in South St Louis.

Camping on The East side and crossing river bridges each day only set the hook. We quizzed folks who should know and received some encouragement and an equal amount of tempting distractions. The tourist information was plentiful and confusing, but we winnowed our list and checked for suitable campgrounds.

Pere Marquette State Park

Pere Marquette State Park was a no-brainer. It's the largest Illinois State Park, sits on the highlands near the juncture of the Illinois and Mississippi and is crowned by a CCC lodge.

Great biking along the Great River Road back as far as Alton, river museums, river town delights, hiking and the lure of the river traffic passing through the biggest locks on the River --this could become a destination....and anywhere you go by auto you are looking up at the Ivory Limestone Bluffs on one side and the river on the other.

The Vadalabene Bike Trail begins at the park and runs 30 miles back toward Alton, sometimes on highway shoulders, but mostly winding into the bluffs, climbing , descending and curving back along cuts to find a narrow crossing. Here it was shady and cool even as the temperature soared.

At Grafton the brimful river spilled onto the path and we rode ankle deep for a short stretch.

This is the Port of Grafton just at the confluence of the Illinois and the Mississippi. Grafton was once the worlds greatest fresh water fishery and source for boats from canoes to dredges.

Hottest day of the year

It was scorching by breakfast, so we began our day sharing the perils and privations of the Corps of Discovery in air conditioned comfort. The is spot #1 on the Lewis and Clark Trail. Here the Corps of Discovery wintered in 1803-4 preparing for departure. The displays are first class, highlighted by the cutaway keelboat showing the placement of supplies and trade goods and a well researched replica of the encampment at River Dubois.

Lewis and Clark State Historical Site.

 

Patty took in all of that but not before some quality tactile time with two loving Newfoundland sisters.

We lunched downtown Alton at My Just Desserts featuring Radical Cherry Pie -- three kinds of cherries, Bing, frozen and dried.

Then on to the where museum exhibits guide you through the long geological history of the Mississippi and others the natural history. Melvin Price Locks and Dam.

 

 

At the simulator, one skilled Captain was able to thread the intricate waterway and TOTALLY miss All the bridges.....Another sent the good ship Admiral to a watery grave.

But the real show was from 80 foot up on the lock watching a real Captain maneuver through with only a foot or two each side.But the real show was from 80 foot up on the lock watching a real Captain maneuver through with only a foot or two each side.

 

THE BRUSSELS FERRY RIDE

 

The Brussels Free Ferry is a mile or two below our campsite and links us with an area of farms, orchards and wildlife refuges pinched between the Missouri and Mississippi.

 

 

The overcast morning felt great as we spun through the Two Rivers Wildlife refuge and along the river, but we paid the price as we climbed the ridge. We could see the highlands of Pere Marquette in the distance and spread out below red barns, neat rows or orchard plots, huge tractors planting 20+ rows at a time. Soon we were baking, and we asked a local for the flattest way back to the ferry.

Just those two hills, then you are downhill ...

He was right, of course, and the rest was bliss.

We will be away from the river for a few days huddling with some Airstream buds. Don't expect a report; Whatever happens at Moraine View...

 

 

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